The Dome of the Rock
We got an early start in order to visit the Dome of the Rock, which is open for only very limited hours. Security, of course, was tight throughout; one enters the Haraam/Temple Mount via a series or ramps from which one can see excavations in process as well as riot shields stacked up and ready at a moment’s notice. I’d long heard that it is a very peaceful place; that is indeed the case. It’s heart-rending to realize – to see – how a place so holy to so many has become such a center of conflict.
Ramallah
After leaving the Old City, we went to Ramallah to visit the Lutheran School and Church of Hope. There, we chatted with David Tannous and his son, Ashraf, who is on internship from seminary in Beirut. Church of Hope’s Pastor Ansara and his family are in Norway on sabbatical; while there, Mrs. Ansara gave birth to preemie twins. Word is that they are doing well. In their absence, Ashraf and others are filling the pulpit and tending to the details of ministry.
After leaving the Old City, we went to Ramallah to visit the Lutheran School and Church of Hope. There, we chatted with David Tannous and his son, Ashraf, who is on internship from seminary in Beirut. Church of Hope’s Pastor Ansara and his family are in Norway on sabbatical; while there, Mrs. Ansara gave birth to preemie twins. Word is that they are doing well. In their absence, Ashraf and others are filling the pulpit and tending to the details of ministry.
David is delightful, holds dual citizenship in Palestine and the US and obtained his college education in Florida (his mother’s brother had lived in the US since 1900). He served 6 years in the US Army before meeting and marrying his wife. The couple then returned to Palestine where they have since lived and raised their family.
Currently, David's son, Ashraf, is filling in with preaching and other duties, including teaching religion class in the school and tutoring an Islamic man who wishes to convert to Christianity. After enjoying lunch with the Tannouses, we went on to visit the tomb of Yasser Arafat.Arafat’s Tomb
I found the setting remarkably peaceful and dignified and the soldiers on duty to be most polite and helpful. (They very gently instructed us to leave all but our cameras in the bus.) Legend has it that Yasser Arafat’s body is not on site but rather somewhere in Europe, awaiting transfer to Jerusalem once a Palestinian state has been established with Jerusalem as its capitol. From the setting of the tomb, we could see the Palestinian Authority Headquarters with Abu Mazen’s photo above the main entrance. I thought of Bishop Schreiber’s story of being picked up by PLA personnel and entering the compound to meet with Palestinian President Abbas’ chief of staff in preparation for the Bishops’ Academy…
The ELCJHL’s Environmental Education Center
From Ramallah, we traveled to the ELCJHL’s Environmental Education Center located at Talitha Kumi School. We learned from Chelsea’s roommate, Kendra (a Berkeley grad) about the center’s programs, including an innovative water use and preservation project, bird banding endeavor, current educational programs and hopes for the future. The Center also hosts the only museum of natural history in the area which features specimens from the early 20th century and beyond. (This Chicago-area native took quick notice of two “pickled babies” on display.)
From where we stood overlooking the valley below, we could see the Wall winding its way through the countryside and, on a hilltop to one side, the massive settlement of Gilo; what was once a hillside covered with trees is now covered with uniformly constructed settlement homes.
Exploring Bethlehem and Beit Jala
After enjoying a little down time and some scarf and kaffiyeh shopping (Chelsea has her own “scarf guy” who, conveniently, has a brother with a shop around the corner!), we went over to the Church of the Reformation, Abraham’s Herberge and the Lutheran Boys’ Home in Beit Jala. There, we had a very informative visit with Pastor Jadallah and his right hand man, “our ‘Lutheran Muslim,’” Mohammed, who grew up in the boys home and now serves as secretary to Pastor Jadallah. 
Of course, we were offered tea, coffee and cookies, which we enjoyed while learning about the history and programs of the community, including the Movement of the Children of Abraham (an interfaith peace effort), Abraham’s Tent (an after school program for children in Deheisheh Refugee camp) and the music and arts programs (including an ironworking and stained glass making shop that does beautiful work) of the Boys Home.
Currently, there are 35 boys in the home but they have offered the authorities in Gaza placement for as many as 60 boys who have been orphaned by the war. Pr. Jadallah estimates that it would cost $1,000 per year of outside funding to sponsor each boy. There is truly some exciting ministry taking place in this community and we felt privileged to learn about and to participate in it.
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