Saturday,
March 1, 2014
St.
George’s Guest House
Jerusalem
Well, I tried to convince SOMEONE else in the group to post on the blog for
today. Clearly, I have failed as a leader in this circumstance!
We arrived in Tel Aviv yesterday afternoon without incident. ‘Seems the
combination of wearing a clerical collar and answering the question, “What is
the purpose of your visit?” with the word, “Pilgrimage,” makes for a
quick trip through immigration.
Last evening, we stayed at Azzahra Hotel where we met Hanna Khoury, our
transportation coordinator, who gifted us with chocolate (he had no idea we
were bringing 15 lbs. of chocolate to our friends)! We met the Zimmanns who
transformed their Doblo into a clown car allowing us all to drive to Jaffa Gate
for a lovely dinner at the Armenian Tavern.
When we returned, we opened our gifts, “gold, frankincense –“ oops, wait, I get
so confused here. The Zimmanns opened our gifts of Saline, Listerine, Cheez-Its
and Seth’s long-awaited game, “Zombicide” game and companions.
Marty provided his well-rehearsed 90-second introduction to our pilgrimage
before we all began to fade and needed to head upstairs for a good night’s
sleep. And it was so.
Today, we were up (not quite as early as planned) for an amazing buffet
breakfast before meeting Tarek, our driver, for our trip to Hebron. We picked
up a group of 6 scholars & theologians led by Anna (from Sweden) and were
on our way.
Our tour of Hebron was led by two volunteers with EAPPI (Ecumenical
Accompaniment Programme in Palestine and Israel, the World Council of Churches):
Stefan (a graduate student in international studies from Austria – studying in
Geneva) and Estefania (an attorney from Ecuador who worked for the Department
of Immigration before leaving her job to take up her work here). We began with
a little shopping in the old souk (“What is your name?” “Sue.” “Ah, like souk”!
Exactly!) where we discovered that Ella has the word “sucker” emblazoned on her
forehead (we couldn’t see it but the shopkeepers certainly could!) before
heading to Ibrahimi Mosque.
We entered the mosque without incident and the Wolverine women all opted for
the blue cloaks which Tim deemed “very Lord of the Rings.” This was the first
time I’d been there when the lights were on so we could see the room of the
tomb of Abraham; the artwork is lovely. (There was a pigeon standing on the
pall…a rather interesting mix of biblical metaphors, there…) We were also able
to get a good look at the tomb of “Abraham’s wife” (aka Sarah) and to bow down
to see the four candles burning for the Patriarchs and Matriarchs (Abe, Sarah,
Jacob and Leah); the incense was a truly fragrant blend. The mosque was quite
busy. Tarek explained that people often come from Jerusalem to visit the Mosque
on Saturdays.
We had no guide at the Mosque and I missed Abu Hani but shared one of his jokes
with the group. (What was Adam and Eve’s phone number? 281-APPLE.) Tim got
another joke from one of the shopkeepers: What are the two “misses” in the US?
Mississippi and Missouri. (No extra charge for those!)
Stefan and Estefania had hoped to take us to the synagogue adjacent to the
mosque (I had seen it but have never been inside) but discovered that it’s not
open to non-Jews on Shabbat. Then, they took us down Shuhada Street, once the
hub of Hebron, which was closed during the Second Intifada. We were stopped by
soldiers and asked for our passports before being allowed to enter the street.
The only other traffic along the street consisted of families going to and from
the synagogue and the IDF and Israeli Police. Greetings of “Shabbat Shalom”
were exchanged by our group and a few of the settlers.
We went up the steps leading to the
Palestinian School, steps that have become iconic as they often figure
prominently in photos and videos of children being harassed on their way
to/from school. While we paused at the top of the steps, Ahmed, a young
man known to our guides came along (carrying a textbook on American
literature!) and kindly shared with us a bit of his experience living across
the street from the settlements in Hebron. He told us how, one day, two 4
year-old cousins were playing above his house when he heard a commotion.
The little girl went running down to Ahmed’s house, barely able to speak and
shaking. The only word she could utter was, “settlers.” Ahmed went running up
the hill toward what turned out to be a group of 7-8 soldiers, two of whom had
hold of the little boy. After a heated exchange, they let the boy go; he was
not injured physically.
Stefan and Estefania took us farther up the hill, beyond the school, into the
Muslim area to show us two sections of land that have been claimed by the
Israeli Antiquities Authority. There is curiosity as to whether they will find
archaeological treasures (quite likely in that area) and turn the land into a
tourist attraction or set aside that task in favor of building another
settlement as has happened before.
We then went DOWN hill, back into modern Hebron for lunch and a stop at the
glass factory. The students were in better positions to listen to one of the
glass blowers as he worked but we all could see how amazing the process is.
This particular artisan recently spent 3 months in New York and Boston
(teaching the art at BU.) I found a few things I’ll treasure and others I hope
others will. We enjoyed wonderful tea while browsing the shop and carefully making
our decisions.
After a few of our young compatriots posed with a white camel on the median of
the street in front of the glass blowing and ceramics shop, we were on our way
back to Jerusalem. [WARNING, TMI for some: The next shop over from the
glass/ceramics shop is a butcher who had on display the carcass of a full camel
– with its head still intact.)
As it turns out, Tarek’s regular job is to shuttle IDF soldiers from one point
to another. As a result, they all know him, so going through checkpoints with
Tarek at the wheel is a downright friendly experience! We checked into St.
George’s Guest House on the grounds of the Anglican Cathedral. Our rooms are
comfy and there’s a solarium just outside our rooms (complete with outlets for electronics).
We’re enjoying the WiFi and time to catch our breath and do a little exploring
before we head into the Old City for dinner.
Peace from Jerusalem where I’m listening to the call to prayer which always
makes me smile.
Sue Sprowls